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Today's Highland Dress is distinctive, smart,
martial, formal and known world wide as Scotland's national costume.
The Highlander of old (pre-1746) would often have worn the feileadh mhor
, Gaelic for a large piece of woollen tartan material wrapped round
the body, belted at the waist and pinned over the shoulder. It no doubt
also served as a blanket while campaigning - the word 'plaid' is the Gaelic
plaide meaning blanket. A sensible garment which could give warmth or be
worn lose with sword arm free. Origins may lie with the ancient Roman or
Celtic tunic. In fact both recent Highlanders and ancient Celts also worn
tight trousers - truis . These were particularly popular on horseback!
Exactly when the fealeadh beg (filibeg), the tailored version worn from
waist to knee, came into existence is open to debate. One suggestion is
that an Englishman in charge of an iron smelter at Invergarry around 1730,
Thomas Rawlinson, suggested that his workforce would fare better at their
work if the dispensed with the upper part of their garment and worn what
we would describe as a kilt. The word 'kilt' itself, although not Gaelic,
is probably older. A Scandinavian or old English root from a verb meaning
'to hitch up and fold a garment' seems most likely.
Today's kilt can be worn, particularly by pipers, with a plaid - a long
piece of tartan wrapped round the upper body which, along with the kilt,
are a modern version of the full feileadh mor of past times. Worn with
jacket or doublet, sporran, Scottish brogue shoes, hose and sgian dubh.
After the battle of Culloden in 1746, traditional Highland Dress was banned
along with tartan from 1746-82. However Highland regiments were being formed
in the Government army and most of these adopted the kilt and a tartan
as part of their uniform. From this martial background comes the style
of today's Highland Dress. When George IV visited Edinburgh in 1822, Full
Highland Dress was worn by almost everybody including King George himself
thanks to the efforts
of Sir Walter Scott. The kilt became quite definitely the distinctive
national dress of Scotland.
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Lord Mungo Murray was the fifth
son of the 2nd Earl of Atholl. He died young, in about 1700, during an
attempt to found a Scottish colony
in Panama. Nearly all references to him concern his military role
in the North of
Scotland in the 1680s and 1690s. The painting is often considered the
first instance of tartan in art.
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